Spezzatino in bianco with Barbaresco Gaia Principe 2013

We attended a new food and wine event held at the Vineria Bistrot Sydeways in Rome – specifically a tasting dinner featuring roast veal. This time, several dishes were paired with no fewer than seven wines by Roberto Sarotto, a producer from the Langhe whom we have already featured in our writeup on the Barbera d'Alba Elena 2012. For the occasion, Roberto came to Rome at Sideways to talk to us about his winery and his wines paired with the dinner dishes: we chose the pairing between the spezzatino in bianco with oven-roasted potatoes by chef Maicol and the Barbaresco Gaia Principe 2013.

INGREDIENTS for 25 people

* 3 kg of a not too sinewy or fatty cut of veal;
* ¾ of a glass of oil;
* approximately 200 g of butter;
* celery, carrots, onion to taste;
* salt and green pepper to taste;
* meat broth;
* one glass of Barbaresco Gaia Principe.

Preparation

Oil and butter were placed in a large saucepan and heated over low heat. Once the butter had melted, the previously chopped aromatics were sautéed. As soon as the onion had browned, the meat was added – already cut into 3/4 cm cubes – into a pot and browned over high heat. The glass of Barbaresco was then added and left to reduce for 5/6 minutes. Broth was subsequently added in a quantity sufficient to cover all the meat. After seasoning with salt and pepper, the meat was left to cook for approximately 2 and a half hours over low heat, stirring the spezzatino from time to time and adding broth as needed. At the end, to obtain a thicker sauce than the one resulting from cooking, a roux was prepared by mixing flour and oil until a more or less thick cream formed (the quantity of oil must be less than that of the flour). Once the cream was prepared, the sauce was brought to a boil and the roux was added in a thin stream. Everything was stirred for another 3/4 minutes until the cream had thickened. Once the cream was added to the meat, the preparation was left to rest in a warm place for 10/15 minutes to allow the flavours to meld before serving. The spezzatino was served with a side of oven-roasted potatoes.

Below is how the dish is characterised from a taste and olfactory profile:

* spezzatino: noticeable intrinsic and induced succulence, perceptible unctuousness, fairly perceptible aromaticity and savouriness;
* carrot and celery cream: perceptible succulence, unctuousness and aromaticity, fairly perceptible savouriness.

Il Barbaresco Gaia Principe 2013

This Barbaresco from Azienda Agricola Roberto Sarotto bears the Gaia Principe geographical designation, a cru in the municipality of Neive. The soil is composed of Marne di Sant'Agata, with ideal characteristics for vine cultivation. The significant percentage of clay and limestone ensures excellent water retention without waterlogging. The vineyard, trained to guyot, is situated on a hillside at 270 m above sea level with a south, south-west exposure. The planting density is 5,000 vines per hectare with a yield of only 60 quintals, well below the limits set by the production regulations. After harvest, the grapes are left to dry for approximately one month before being vinified: in this way the sugars and aromatic compounds are concentrated – characteristics we will encounter in the wine. Ageing lasts approximately 14 months in barriques, followed by a further six months in stainless steel before bottling.

Let us move on to the tasting. The wine presents a beautiful garnet colour, dense at the centre of the glass. When the glass is given a swirling motion, it forms very thick arches, with a tear that takes a little while before it begins to descend – a clear sign of a highly significant material concentration. On the nose, the wine is initially closed, showing all of its youth. Floral tones of violet gradually emerge, followed by red fruit in jam, particularly redcurrant and morello cherry. Spices of cinnamon and cloves then surface, followed by fern, earth, and a finish of persistent liquorice. On the palate we immediately perceive the significant glyceric load, while the pseudo-warming sensation due to the 16 degrees of alcohol appears well managed by a vigorous acidity. The tannins are already silky. An imposing structure, yet with great harmony – a Barbaresco perfectly coherent both in its taste and olfactory analysis and with Roberto Sarotto's philosophy: centred on the masterful union of tradition and innovation.

Let us now look at how we found the pairing of the Barbaresco with the spezzatino. The sensation of liquid in the mouth, given by the succulence and unctuousness of the meat, was balanced by the tannin and the significant alcohol content of the Barbaresco. The aromaticity of the sauce combined beautifully with the softness of the wine. The pronounced persistence of both the wine and the dish blended well, completing this pairing most worthily.

A pairing that for us was perfectly successful, between a dish made with the finest quality ingredients and the great wine that is Barbaresco Gaia Principe 2013.