Perillo, vertical tasting of Taurasi

Walking through the Campania pavilion, I stopped at the stand of the Irpinian winery Perillo, where, unexpectedly, I had the chance to taste several vintages of Taurasi and Taurasi Riserva.

Perillo is a small estate managing five hectares of vineyard in the municipalities of Castelfranci and Montemarano. The vineyards located on high hillsides, between 600 and 700 metres above sea level, are trained in a radial pattern and some are very old and ungrafted. Being planted on significant slopes as well, the vineyard enjoys excellent sun exposure.

The soils, rich in skeleton and silica, are characterised by a particular clay-limestone and sandy concentration. The climate is continental, with winters that are often very cold and summers that are warm but never torrid. Significant temperature swings between night and day, as well as between seasons, are notable. In warm vintages, thermal variations preserve aromas and acidity. In rainy ones, the dry and windy climate prevents problems related to mould and rot.

Work in the vineyard is done by hand, though green operations are few, given the low bud load left during pruning. The Aglianico used to make Taurasi in this area is called coda di cavallo, owing to the characteristics of the loose, elongated cluster and the presence of very small berries, with a high skin-to-pulp ratio. Yields are consequently very low, not exceeding 30 quintals per hectare. Harvest time is usually in the month of November.

Aglianico, a grape variety extremely rich in polyphenols, produces a bluish-coloured must giving rise to extremely concentrated wines. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine destined to become Taurasi spends approximately 20 months in barriques and 20-hectolitre casks. In favourable vintages the Riserva is also produced, with a more significant wood ageing and longer bottle refinement.

The Taurasi wines from Perillo thus become powerful wines, rich in extracts and of great gustatory depth. They require time and patience to tame their extraordinary and aggressive tannic charge. As I was able to verify during the tasting of five samples: two Taurasi (2007 and 2005) and three Taurasi Riserva (2006, 2004 and 2003).

Taurasi 2007, 14%

Ruby in colour with a garnet rim, the nose is complex and articulate, with notes of red fruit with plum and cherry clearly prominent. Then spicy tones of pepper, tobacco and boisé nuances. Gripping on the palate, with drying tannins and a very pronounced acidity. Finishes very long with mineral and liquorice returns.

Taurasi Riserva 2006, 14%

Garnet in colour with beautiful ruby highlights, the olfactory attack delivers impetuous sensations. Leather, earth, black tea, fungal notes. Broad and dynamic on the palate, with a great sapidity prominent and a perceptible acid backbone. The tannin is dense, not particularly caressing, but capable of resolving into a very long balsamic finish.

Taurasi 2005, 13.5%

Full and gleaming garnet, on the nose it expresses a concentrate of ripe and crunchy fruit, primarily sour cherries and plums in jam. Then, in sequence, undergrowth, resinous and balsamic hints. The great tannic structure and the considerable acid backbone still make it a touch hard and in need of time and further refinement.

Taurasi Riserva 2004, 13.5%

Deep garnet in colour, with a great concentration at the centre of the glass. Complex nose, with fruity notes of cherry jam, aromatic herbs on a dark background of undergrowth and leather. On the palate the tannin still appears very condensed, although time has softened its sharpest edges. Long finish with retronasal returns of liquorice.

Taurasi Riserva 2003, 14%

Dense garnet in colour, on the nose the balsamic and smoky notes are striking, well integrated with chocolatey, toasted nuances. Hints of red fruit jam confirm the warm character of the vintage. On the palate the hard components are finally well balanced by glyceric softness and alcohol, with the tannin now fully integrated into the wine. Balsamic persistence is moderate.

In conclusion, I had the opportunity to taste important wines, to be awaited with confidence in the cellar and which usually give their best after at least a decade. At the end of the experience I offer my thanks and farewells, reinforcing my awareness of the many different expressions this great wine can achieve.