Amarone in Villa Tasting

On Thursday 23/01/2014, in the enchanting setting of Villa de Winckels in Tregnago, the 4th edition of Amarone in Villa took place.
Dal Forno, Allegrini, Bertani, Speri are just some of the most prestigious names present at this edition, which saw over 60 wineries take part.

To be honest, it was not easy for me! Where to start? Or rather, who to start with?

Tasting them all was out of the question! Go in alphabetical order, follow some trade guide, or make a distinction between producers from the Valpolicella classica and the extended zone?

So before continuing, it would be worth spending a few words on this outstanding figure of Italian enology: the Amarone della valpolicella is a DOCG with an ampelographic base of corvina veronese from 45 to 95% with the presence of corvinone at a maximum of 50% replacing an equal percentage of corvina, and rondinella from 5 to 30%.
Up to a maximum of 25% can come from non-aromatic red-berry grape varieties permitted in the province of Verona, at a maximum of 15% with a maximum limit of 10% for each single variety used, or classified as Italian native varieties pursuant to law no.82/06, art.2, red-berry varieties permitted for cultivation in the province of Verona, for the remaining 10% total.

The maximum grape yield must be 12 t/ha and 11% vol.
The grapes, after drying in suitable environments, cannot be vinified before December 1st of the vintage and must ensure a minimum natural volumetric alcohol content of 14% vol. The wine, before being placed on the market, must undergo aging of at least 2 years starting from January 1st following the vintage year of grape production.

To use the riserva designation, the wine must undergo a minimum aging period of at least 4 years starting from November 1st of the harvest year.
The production areas are:
For the extended zone, the province of Verona in the municipalities of San Martino b.a., Illasi, Tregnago, etc.
For the classic zone, the municipalities of Fumane, Marano, Negrar, Sant'Ambrogio and San Pietro in Cariano

For the Valpantena zone: part of the municipalities of Grezzana and Verona
Well, I must admit that I have always had mixed feelings about Amarone, as I consider its greatest strength to also be a limitation, and vice versa.

I managed to taste about twenty wines from the following producers: Mazzi, Speri, Terre di Leone, Arduini, Brigaldara, Bertani, Marion, Manara, Le Guaite, Massimago, Ferragu', Dal Forno, Gamba, Antolini, Vigadori, Mosconi, Rubinelli Vajon, Roccolo Grassi, Scriani, Spada, Terre di Pietra, Tommasi and as always I found myself faced with very different wines from one another: whether because not all use the same grape percentages, or because some push the drying process to extremes, or put it down to differences in soils and temperature ranges – tasting some from producers unknown to me, I came across meditation wines, then moved on to wines of a more traditional style with a clear reference to recioto, or to wines of lower alcohol and structure but with greater finesse and elegance.

The wines that excited me most

Marion Amarone della valpolicella 2009. On the nose, red fruit, particularly cherry, plum and spicy notes. On the palate it presents itself as creamy and velvety with an expertly balanced softness. A harmonious wine overall.

Speri Amarone della valpolicella classico vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano 2009 – I cannot recall a Speri Amarone below my expectations. Deep garnet color; on the nose it presents itself as straightforward and refined with a range of dried fruits.
Great sensation of fullness on the palate, appropriately tannic and enveloping. Balanced with great persistence.

Next......
Gamba Amarone della valpolicella Riserva 2007 – the surprise. A beautiful garnet red, fruit and spices released from the wood. On the palate important pseudo-caloric sensations, round with very elegant tannins. Refined and balanced.

Antolini Amarone della Valpolicella classico Ca'Coato 2009 – a wine that from the very first olfactory examination gives a clear sense of very calcareous soils. Fragrant of red fruit under spirit. Warm, refined and complex with ample room to grow.

Terre di Pietra Amarone della valpolicella classico 2008. A young winery both in terms of years on the market and the age of its owner, Laura Albertini, who for the occasion presents an Amarone of a beautiful intense color, with clear aromas of ripe red fruits and very delicate spicy notes. Well balanced with a clear identity of its own; clean and elegant.

Zyme Amarone della Valpolicella 2007 – a perfect wine. Beautiful deep garnet color, with evident sweet spicy notes and hints of black fruit. Full-bodied and warm with perfectly balanced acidity. Elegant. The only flaw: slightly atypical.

Best value for money wines

Arduini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2010 – tasted as a preview; I think the Arduini estate has hit the mark with a wine that already presents itself as ready, rich in aromas, with a nice body, warm, fresh and sufficiently balanced.

Manara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Postera 2008 – a typical Amarone! In color, aromas and structure. Certainly less elegant and refined than others, but straightforward and robust.

Wines I didn't enjoy

During the evening I also came across wines that did not excite me at all, such as the Amarone from Scriani – an unbalanced wine with green notes that are not fitting in a wine like this.
Great disappointment for the wine presented by Bertani: slightly lacking in color, thin – so thin as not to seem like an Amarone.
Thumbs down also for Massimago, which for the occasion offered the only wine available, namely the 2010 vintage; green tannins, a wine far from balanced and not up to the mark.
Finally, a negative mention for the Amarone from the Ferragù estate: on the nose too cooked, certainly a very full-bodied wine but far from balance due to a lack of acidity.

Overall, I was sincerely satisfied by some of the wines mentioned above and, alas, I decided to delay my departure from Verona to late Friday evening in order to be able to visit some wineries and dedicate the appropriate time in peace to sketch a brief profile of each estate and to best describe their wines.
Which wineries? Marion and Terre di Pietra.