TERROIRS & GRAPES
  • MARCH 3, 2015
  • 5 min
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Chianti: let's travel the road of a myth

Chianti: history in the glass When we talk about Tuscany, we think of a territory extraordinarily rich in history and culture: just stroll, even if only in your mind, through those wonderful villages and hills where vineyards chase one another, fabulous postcard panoramas...

Eleonora Baldassini

by Eleonora Baldassini
Expert of Territories and Wines

Chianti: let's travel the road of a myth

Chianti: history in the glass

When we talk about Tuscany, we think of a territory extraordinarily rich in history and culture: just stroll, even if only in your mind, through those wonderful villages and hills where vineyards chase one another, fabulous postcard panoramas.
Wine, which in turn represents culture and passion, has made this Italian region even more celebrated throughout the world; beyond its fabulous scenic gems, Tuscany is associated in every corner of the planet with the production of great red wines, particularly Chianti. This celebrated wine owes its fame to the dedication and passion, but also to the intuitions of great men who, succeeding one another over time, have shaped it. The terroir then does the rest!

Sangiovese from its origins to Chianti

Since ancient times vines have been cultivated in Tuscany, gradually spreading over the years into the more inland areas until winning over bishops, abbots and monks, who began planting them around abbeys, convents and monasteries.
Sangiovese, probably of Etruscan origin, thrives in the Tuscan territory in the two varieties known as Sangiovese Grosso and Sangiovese Piccolo. Once upon a time both varieties were grouped under the name "i Sangiovese", but today we know that the Grosso corresponds to Brunello, for example, and the Piccolo – nicknamed Morellino – carries a significant acidic backbone.
The various zones of Chianti are so diverse that Sangiovese, absorbing their character, gives life to different wines; beyond the wine itself we witness a change in the vine variety, which presents itself with a thicker or thinner skin depending on the area. This was also an observation made by Clemente Santi, who, by studying the variety from Montalcino through true clonal selection, succeeded in obtaining a Sangiovese with a small berry and thicker skin, thereby allowing a greater concentration of polyphenols.

Chianti between tradition and innovation

In the second half of the nineteenth century, studies began on the codification of vine clones, as the need arose to establish what Chianti should be. In this regard, Bettino Ricasoli in 1872 introduced white berries such as Malvasia into the Chianti blend, as they enhanced its flavour, making it a ready-to-drink wine. Over the years, however, the percentage of white grapes increased to as much as 30%, and Trebbiano was also added. The result was pale Chiantis that were "coloured" and reinforced with southern reds.
In this climate, where the need to revalue a great territory was strongly felt, in 1971 the Antinori family brought Tignanello to light – a wine that, alongside Sangiovese, introduced international varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon and aging in small oak barrels.
Other wineries followed the wave of "rebellion," producing other wines inspired by Antinori, now known as Supertoscani – today excellent IGT wines.
Sergio Manetti, for his part, invested in the Montevertine estate in the stunning setting of the municipality of Radda in Chianti. The year 1971 also marks the bottling of Pergole Torte, a pure Sangiovese.
Wines of undoubted excellence that, going against the production regulations, had to be classified as "Vino da Tavola."
A few years later Tignanello came to market, bringing with it further novelties such as Solaia (Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc).
These international varieties also made their way into Chianti production. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot – excellent companions for Sangiovese.

The different zones of Chianti

Chianti finds its home between the provinces of Florence and Siena, encompassing parts of the provinces of Florence, Siena, Arezzo, Pisa, Prato and Pistoia.
Continuing east of Florence, the Chianti Rufina denomination is characterised by wines of undisputed elegance suited to long aging.
Chianti Colli Senesi envelops the palate with its unmistakable finesse, while Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colline Pisane, Chianti Colline Aretine, Chianti Montespertoli and, to the northwest of Florence, Chianti Montalbano represent less ambitious Chiantis, yet ones that still possess character and personality.
In this complex Chianti landscape, where the body and structure of the wine change within just a few kilometres as the terroir shifts, the subzone of Chianti Classico remains the finest. The Classico vineyards are distributed between 250 and over 500 metres above sea level, and every producer's challenge is to evolve the tannins while reducing the acidity of the late-ripening Sangiovese; those who succeed obtain harmonious and long-lived wines.
As far back as 1716, sensing the great potential of this territory, the Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III defined its boundaries. To protect the Classico, on 14 May 1924 in Radda in Chianti the Consorzio Chianti Classico Gallo Nero was founded – still active today in safeguarding the wine from numerous imitations while promoting and enhancing the territory.
The municipalities of Castellina in Chianti, Radda in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, Greve in Chianti, part of San Casciano Val di Pesa, Barberino Val D'Elsa, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Castelnuovo Berardenga and part of Poggibonsi bear the Chianti Classico denomination.
Ruby in colour, with aromas of red fruits, blackberry, marasca cherry, floral notes of violet, peppery, spiced and toasted sensations, balsamic notes, balanced and always elegant – these are a series of descriptors sometimes used for Chianti Classico. Its structure and personality make it a truly unique wine.

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