Aglianico del Vulture, Carbone in a Glass

Aglianico del Vulture the wine

We met the Carbone siblings at their stand for a greeting and to taste the new vintages of their wines. But who are Sara and Luca Carbone?

For a decade they have relaunched the family vineyard, located in the area of Melfi, in the heart of the Vulture. Among the volcanic soils of the Contrade Piani dell'Incoronata, Montelapis and Braide, 10 hectares of vines of varying planting age spread out, already productive. The oldest vines reach 40 years, while the youngest are under ten. Another eight hectares have been planted. The vineyard is almost entirely cultivated with Aglianico, from which 4 of the 5 wines produced on the estate are obtained.

They tenaciously began bottling the Aglianico, then the Fiano, while more recently Moscato has also been cultivated. Then came the winery located right in the heart of Melfi, where, in some evocative rooms carved into the tuff, the barrel cellar finds its home. The winemaking and bottling facility is located instead at Braide.

Currently 35,000 bottles are produced on the estate. The particular morphology of the volcanic territory, the climate that can comfortably be defined as continental, the significant temperature variations between summer and winter and between day and night all favor the absolute qualitative level of the vineyard's grapes. The expertise of the Carbone siblings in the cellar, with the assistance of Sergio Paternoster, ensures that quality is transferred into the bottles.

Let us taste their contents.

Fiano 2012
The first vintage of this label was 2008. The wine is a deep straw yellow color with golden reflections, absolutely clear. The nose is characterized by floral notes, exotic fruit, citrus with vegetal nuances and aromatic herbs on a mineral undertone. On the palate the wine is characterized by a considerable fresh-savory backbone, well balanced by a well-present alcohol. The retronasal returns of pineapple are very pleasant. Beautiful structure, resting
for six months on the fine lees.

Rosa Carbone 2013
It is the latest release from cantina Carbone. With its crystalline coral color, the hue is due simply to gentle pressing of the grapes. A clear sign of the tremendous coloring capacity of the Aglianico grape. Practically a rosé made without any skin contact during maceration. Enticing aromas of wild strawberries and – needless to say – rose, great drinkability distinguished by a beautiful acidity. A successful experiment in what this grape is capable of in skilled hands.

Aglianico del Vulture Terra dei Fuochi 2011
The name evokes what the Vulture was like when it poured out its fiery lava. A luminous violet-ruby in appearance, it presents aromas ranging from violets to black cherry, from marasca to morello cherry, through to notes of undergrowth, fern, tobacco with a finish of licorice. On the palate the immediate freshness, the vibrancy of the fruit, a measured tannin – never harsh and well integrated – guarantee great drinkability. It is an apparently simple wine, sincere and direct, but never rustic. Measure and immediacy are its strengths together with vigor, leaving a very dynamic and stimulating sensation after swallowing. The marasca returns with that bitterish, almond-tinged quality that benefits, never tires, and stimulates you to drink more.

Aglianico del Vulture 400 some 2011
The wine recalls Carlo d'Angiò who, after a stay in the hills of the Vulture, appreciated the wine produced there so much that he requested 400 some of it every year for his own cellar. Deep and compact ruby in color, it presents a thick, consistent tear in the glass. The olfactory profile surprises with its extreme finesse and expressive elegance. Here the use of wood is magnificently measured. The perfect balance of fruit, with notes of blueberry and ripe blackberry, blends with hints of tobacco; peppery accents, licorice and cinnamon merge with mineral, graphite traits. On the palate the silky tannin and lasting freshness make for a long and very clear persistence with a return of dried rose in the finish. An incredibly captivating wine.

Aglianico del Vulture Stupor Mundi 2009
Dedicated to Frederick II of Swabia, the "Stupor Mundi" of the 13th century, it presents itself in a deep ruby robe. On the nose it offers notes of preserved fruit, blackberry, blueberry, accompanied by peppery tones, leather, pleasant notes of undergrowth, licorice and balsamic hints in the finish. The tasting reveals an important consistency, a precious tannic strength, a ferrous minerality that blends magnificently with the fruit. The juiciness and freshness, capable of sustaining over 14 degrees of alcohol without diminishing drinkability, confirm that we are tasting a certainly long-lived wine, still evolving and capable of opening up over time to further complexity. Two years in barrel for a truly great Aglianico, deep and complex.
We also tasted the 2011, just bottled and not yet on the market. What strikes one about this sample is the enormous tannin, perhaps still too firm, but of great caliber, denoting a considerable youth yet still great potential.

We say our farewells and leave, aware that the path laid out is the right one: quality and perseverance.