Donnafugata Wines, Excellences of Sicily

The name Donnafugata – literally "woman in flight" – is linked to Queen Maria Carolina of Bourbon who, during the Napoleonic invasion, took refuge in Sicily where the estate's vineyards are found today. It was Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, in Il Gattopardo, who gave this territory its name.

In more recent times, in the mid-1980s, Giacomo Rallo, who passed away suddenly this past May, founded the winery together with his wife Gabriella. Today Donnafugata is run by their children José and Antonio, the newly appointed president of the Unione Italiana Vini.

The estate has made quality the focus of its production philosophy. An emblem of this constant pursuit is the attention given to the eco-friendly development and cultural stewardship of the territory. In addition to being one of the first wineries to adopt photovoltaic systems, Donnafugata quantifies greenhouse gas emissions from vineyard to bottling. In recent years, carbon dioxide emissions have decreased, improving energy efficiency across all activities.

The vineyards extend across more than 300 hectares at several production sites in Sicily. The vines are located in areas highly suited for their soils, exposures, and altitudes. The grapes are tasted throughout the entire ripening process to identify the optimal moment for harvesting each variety. For early-ripening cultivars such as Chardonnay, the harvest can begin in mid-August, when temperatures exceed 35°C. In such cases, harvesting is carried out at night, preserving the aromas of the grapes and avoiding the risk of unwanted fermentation.

In Contessa Entellina, in the hinterland of western Sicily, Donnafugata's vineyards are constantly monitored by a weather station that analyzes rainfall, humidity, temperatures, solar radiation, and wind impact. This makes it possible to minimize phytosanitary treatments by preventing the onset of diseases such as downy mildew and powdery mildew. In Santa Margherita del Belice, an experimental vineyard allows for the recovery of nearly extinct varieties such as Nocera. At the Khamma winery on the island of Pantelleria, where the Zibibbo vineyards are located, heroic viticulture is practiced. Due to the arid and windy climate, the vines are trained in the alberello pantesco style, kept very low, with small terraces and dry-stone walls. Production costs are high, with labor requirements three times greater than in Contessa Entellina. Alongside these territories, we should mention the recent acquisitions on Etna and in the Vittoria area in eastern Sicily.

The Rallo family's historic cellars, visited this past summer, are located in Marsala. Here, the products from the various estates converge and the aging and bottling processes take place. And it was right in the Marsala winery that we tasted some of Donnafugata's wines – representing only a portion of the extensive range.

Prio 2015

Pure Cataratto, from grapes sourced in the Contessa Entellina area. Straw yellow in color, the nose is characterized by intense floral aromas, citrus notes, and aromatic herbs. The palate is distinguished by a fresh, savory vein that makes it lively and enjoyable, as well as reasonably persistent. Prio, which in Sicilian dialect means joy and cheerfulness, is the good-mood wine to drink at any time, not just in summer.

Lighea 2015

From Moscato d'Alessandria or Zibibbo grapes grown in Pantelleria and vinified in a dry style. With its crystalline straw color with greenish glints, it immediately strikes for its aromatic Moscato character: rose, geranium, jasmine, then citrus and Mediterranean scrub. On the palate, minerality prevails over freshness, which is nonetheless good. The finish is long, again on aromatic notes. Lighea is the siren described by Tomasi di Lampedusa, as seductive as this wine.

Lumera 2015

A blend of Nero d'Avola, Syrah, Tannat, and Pinot Nero, Lumera is a rich, structured rosé produced from grapes grown in the Contessa Entellina area. With its beautiful coral color, the wine captivates with fruity aromas of wild strawberries and raspberries, hints of rose, and a spicy finish. On the palate, the harder components prevail with acidity to the fore. A savory finish. With its evocative feminine name, Lumera is a pleasant and satisfying wine.

Sherazade 2015

Sherazade is emblematic of the eclecticism of Nero d'Avola, capable of producing both great reds and easy-drinking wines. Deep ruby with violet glints, we perceive prominent fruity notes of sour cherry and blackberry, then violet with a pepper-tinged finish. On the palate it is rich, already in balance with a silky tannin and good glyceric softness. Sherazade, the feminine character from "One Thousand and One Nights," is a wine of pleasurable drinkability designed to be enjoyed young.

Angheli 2012

A blend of international varieties from the Contessa Entellina vineyards, with a slight prevalence of Merlot over Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine ages in small barrels for one year and rests in bottle for at least two more. Deep ruby red in color, the nose is characterized by a complex aromatic spectrum. Fruity tones of ripe plum and cherry preserve give way to tobacco notes, toasty and balsamic on the finish. On the palate, the tannin is substantial and very fine, balanced by softness and a very well-integrated alcohol. This wine, whose name evokes the Angelica of Orlando Furioso, can be enjoyed for many years to come.

Mille e Una Notte 2011

A blend of Nero d'Avola, Petit Verdot, and Syrah from the Contessa Entellina vineyards. Yields are just 40 q/ha, equivalent to 750 g of grapes per vine. The wine ages for 14 months in barrique and for at least three years in bottle. Deep ruby in color, broad aromatic spectrum. An opening of red fruit preserve, then pepper, liquorice, tobacco, and undergrowth. A broad palate, with softness balanced by a freshness that keeps it lively and youthful. A long finish on lingering notes of liquorice. Truly a wine worthy of Mille e Una Notte, one that must be patiently awaited so it may continue to evolve.

Ben Ryè 2013

A great wine, the archetype of Pantelleria passiti, made exclusively from Zibibbo grapes. The fresh grapes are dried on racks before being manually selected prior to vinification. Luminous amber yellow in color, the wine forms thick tears in the glass, a sign of substantial structure. A monumental nose, with fruity sensations typical of dried grape wines such as dried figs, dates, and candied fruit. Then mineral notes, sweet spices, and citrus nuances. The palate is marked by a sweet pleasantness that never cloys, supported by a vibrant acidity. From the Arabic for "son of the wind," Ben Ryè is the worthy conclusion to this wonderful tasting.

We conclude our winery visit with the awareness of having tasted a piece of Sicilian history and excellence. A story that continues and renews itself over time.