Biodynamic Wines with Character: Orsogna Winery

Making wine is an art, there are many dynamics and strategies to evaluate and adopt.
Biodynamic wine is synonymous with wine obtained from grapes produced using the biodynamic farming technique; the specifications that define a biodynamic wine are still being defined, as each country has a different climate and a different winemaking tradition. The association responsible for this is Demeter International.
Biodynamics studies the forces that govern living beings, the astrological influences that planets and the moon have on plants and soil. The goal is to create the right interconnection between sky and earth, and the consultation of lunar calendars.
Preparations are created – natural fertilizers and composts – the most famous being "Preparation 500" or horn manure;
it is made using cow manure placed inside a horn, also from a cow. The preparation is then buried and left to ferment underground for an entire winter. Once the season has passed, it is mixed with warm or rainwater for about an hour, creating vortices, and once this operation is complete it is ready to be applied to the soil.
According to proponents of biodynamics, these methods achieve the maximum expression of the plant and therefore of the fruit.
Results? Wines with an extremely pronounced character.

The technique has sparked lengthy debate among industry insiders, as there is no true scientific basis; indeed, the principles on which these "preparations" are based are comparable to those of homeopathic medicine.
It was precisely at the event held a few months ago, AMA – Anteprima Montepulciano D'Abruzzo, organized by AIS Abruzzo, that I had the opportunity to taste for the first time Demeter-certified biodynamic wines from Cantina Orsogna Winery.
The Biodynamic Line was presented: Coste Di Moro Montepulciano, Pettirosce Cerasuolo, Civitas Pecorino, La Belle Malvasia.
The tasting, as usual, begins with the white and in particular the Civitas, awarded the grand gold medal at Vinitaly 2014 just concluded, Pecorino Igp Terre di Chieti 2012, of excellent structure with its 13.5% alcohol, straw yellow in color with light greenish reflections at the rim, particularly floral on the nose, white flowers, elegant and intense. On the palate fragrant and fruity, with crisp white fruits, good freshness and excellent minerality, balanced and persistent.
If I were to assign a character to this wine I would say it is frank, straightforward and sincere.

We continue with La Belle Malvasia di Candia Terre di Chieti Igt 2012 - 12.5% alcohol, a particularly aromatic grape variety. Lively straw yellow in color with light golden reflections, on the nose the fruity notes stand out above all, yellow fruit and light floral hints of white flowers, intense but not particularly complex: the intense fruitiness overshadows the rest – perhaps one needs to wait a few more seconds to capture other aromas. On the palate "pungent", its freshness is pleasantly felt on the tongue, fairly well balanced with the soft elements, long persistence on the finish.

A slightly shy and reserved wine that takes its own time to express itself.
It is the turn of Pettirosce Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Doc 2012 – the color is most inviting, a vivid cherry pink! Intoxicating on the nose, with hints of cherry and strawberry, light and delicate floral notes. On the palate fresh and decisive with a slightly balsamic retro-nasal sensation. Excellent structure with its 13.5% alcohol.
I would say it is cheeky, lively, and should be taken for what it is – an enjoyable wine, easy to pair and not too demanding.

We close on a high note with Coste Di Moro Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Doc 2010, awarded at the Sommelier Wine Awards 2013, ruby red in color with violet hues, intense and complex with hints of wild berries in spirit and jam, plum, blueberries, wilted violet, followed by tertiary notes of chocolate and tobacco. Enveloping and velvety, the tannins are soft, roundness and fullness on the palate – these are the tactile sensations most perceived.

Balanced and harmonious, truly excellent!
Strong and gentle, like the people of Abruzzo!!