Brezza: Barolo di Barolo, expression of different cru.

We stopped by the Brezza stand and tasted their prestigious single-cru vintage Barolo. A unique opportunity, absolutely not to be missed, to taste the fruit of some of the most renowned vineyards in the comune of Barolo, as well as the entire appellation. Because Brezza, for over a century (the winery was founded in 1885) is one of the most significant estates in Barolo di Barolo and pursues wine quality through the careful selection of grapes from the best estate-owned vineyards.
The territory of the comune of Barolo is generally considered to date back to the Tortonian period, of more recent formation compared to those of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d'Alba or Serralunga d'Alba. The composition of the soils that emerged from the sea during that period (approximately 10 million years ago) would lend the wine a character of greater fruit, an balance achievable with less bottle aging and a distinct elegance. The reality is far more complex, and the detailed zoning that can be found throughout the Barolo territory (and therefore also in the comune of Barolo ..) is the clearest testament to this.
Thus it happens that Brezza owns vines in some of the most prestigious cru such as Sarmassa, Cannubi and Castellero, all within the comune of Barolo. And that from individual vineyards (rigorously stated on the label) it gives rise to wines with their own distinguishable characteristics. And that is what we will try to describe.

We tasted the 2011 vintage Barolo, the one currently on the market. In general, Brezza's wines are characterized by extended macerations and aging in large Slavonian oak casks. We will first give an account of how the vintage unfolded.
Winter was regular both in terms of temperatures and rainfall, which intensified especially in March, resulting in good water availability in the soil. The high temperatures of April led to an early start to vegetative development. Conversely, from the end of June onward, temperatures were no longer particularly elevated.

Temperatures rose significantly again in August, having a considerable impact on the reduction of grape weight. For Nebbiolo, the providential rains of early September proved essential, which, together with a drop in nighttime temperatures, allowed the achievement of a fine aromatic balance and promoted ripening with attainment of a good harmony between the sugar, acid and phenolic components of the grape.
The vintage was classified as great. Let us see how the tasting went.

Barolo Sarmassa 2011

The soil of this vineyard, like the entire part of the comune of Barolo bordering La Morra, is composed predominantly of Marne di Sant'Agata characterized by a significant percentage of clay and silt that ensure greater water retention. At the same time, its slope prevents unfavorable waterlogging.
The Barolo presents itself with a clear, transparent garnet color, of fine structure. A wonderful nose that opens with floral hints of rose and violet, then fruity notes of blackberry and sour cherry jam. Then chocolatey notes emerge, along with tobacco, a dusting of nutmeg, then undergrowth with a finish of licorice. On the palate the fresh-tannic component tends to prevail over the softer parts due to the wine's youth, despite the tannin being of the finest caliber.
A wine that shows itself intense and very persistent, with continuous balsamic returns and, despite being so young, is already to be considered harmonious and of excellent quality.

Barolo Cannubi 2011

We are speaking of what is probably the most prestigious vineyard in Italy. Located at an altitude of approximately 250 m above sea level, it stands out for combining both the characteristics of the Tortonian period – with the presence of Marne di Sant'Agata – and the geologically older Helvetian, with the Arenarie di Diano. The territory presents a higher concentration of sand compared to Sarmassa, an element responsible for the extreme finesse and elegance of the Barolo produced there.
A Barolo that appears transparent garnet in color, with penetrating aromas of violet and red and black fruit, both fresh and in jam form. Then a subtle spiciness and notes of sweet tobacco, undergrowth, mushroom, fern and roasted, torrefaction aromas. Full and refined on the palate, with the firm and soft components balancing perfectly despite the wine being newly born.
The soft, enveloping tannins already perfectly integrated in the long finish stand out.

Barolo Castellero 2011

The geological formation that distinguishes this vineyard is the Arenarie di Diano, formed during the Helvetian period. The particular conformation of the soil is thus very compact, more calcareous and sandy than Cannubi and Sarmassa and gives rise to a more austere Barolo, especially when still young.
This Barolo Castellero presents itself with a classic garnet red color. On the nose it expresses an olfactory range that plays on floral hints of violet and fruity notes of currant, also in jam form, as well as cherry in spirit. Then it opens to spiced notes of cloves, musk and, finally, roasted aromas of bitter coffee. On the palate freshness prevails along with a very present tannin, with retro-olfactory returns of licorice that characterize its long persistence.

These are our impressions of these Barolo, in which the same underlying character is recognizable despite the differences found. Expressions of Barolo at an excellent level, with peaks of excellence that call for several years of cellar aging to allow the completion of the tertiarization of the aromas.