RED WINES
  • MAY 24, 2014
  • 3 min
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The Best Lambrusco in the World: Otello Nero di Ceci

I'll start by saying I'm not a Lambrusco lover. I lived through, in the early Eighties, the entire arc of this wine destined, in containers, toward the United States, where it was called "Red Cola". Those were the dark times of lambrusco sold for next to nothing on the motorway, with a plastic cork and a dubious flavor with added carbon dioxide...

Pasquale Testardi

by Pasquale Testardi
Sommelier & Taster

The Best Lambrusco in the World: Otello Nero di Ceci

I'll start by saying I'm not a lover of Lambrusco.
I lived through, in the early Eighties, the entire arc of this wine destined, in containers, toward the United States, where it was called "Red Cola".
Those were the dark times of lambrusco sold for next to nothing at motorway stops, with a plastic cork, a dubious flavor, and added carbon dioxide. Certainly, such a policy allowed many companies to grow their revenues, but the quality of the product remained at medium-low levels for decades, even as it stayed one of the most exported Italian products in the world. All my preconceptions about Lambrusco dissolved when, a few years ago, a bottle of Lambrusco Otello Nero di Ceci came into my hands, impressing me with its weight, refined appearance, and shape.

Surprise turned to wonder when that nectar, poured into the glass, appeared before me in all its splendor. This Lambrusco Otello of deep purple-red color crowned by a foam of the same hue. The nose presents clear and distinct notes of raspberry, strawberry, and cherry accompanied by wafts of violet and wild rose. On the palate it enters soft and persuasive, with measured tannins and pleasant effervescence. A true delight.

It was the year 2009 and the Duemila Vini guide by AIS awarded, for the first time in history, 5 bunches of grapes to Ceci di Torrile, in the province of Parma, for its Lambrusco Otello Nero 2007. Never had a wine made from lambrusco grapes received the highest score, a recognition usually reserved for Barolo or Brunello.

A courageous choice by the innkeeper Otello Ceci, in the lower Parma plains, who as far back as 1938 bet everything on this lambrusco variety, the Maestri, with its impenetrable color and intense aromas. The passion for this variety has endured over time, and now Otello Ceci's grandchildren, including Alessandro, the winemaker, continue with dedication to produce this gem of Italian winemaking. I felt that same sense of wonder again when I recently drank the 2012 vintage of this thoroughbred. Harvested in the first days of October, it undergoes maceration on the skins at low temperature for 6–7 days to enhance its perfumes and aromas. The subsequent refinement and refermentation last 3 months in autoclave following the metodo Charmat, an operation that precedes filtration and bottling. An exceptional product, especially when sold at a price no higher than 8 euros.
A match made in heaven for this vino lambrusco Otello: a fine Culatello or a well-aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Fantastic with Cotechino. Prosit.

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