Caiatì 2013, the Revenge of Pallagrello and Re Nasone

Some time ago we talked about Pallagrello – that article covered the general characteristics of this interesting grape variety found mainly in the Caserta area and in Molise. Today we are instead telling you about a tasting that took place at the Vini Divini wine bar in Naples with producer Michele Alois.

Michele, with his slightly hoarse voice, explained his wines and production processes to us in the simplest possible way – the way you would explain things to a child – since reading the technical data sheets, with their complex terminology, can discourage any deeper exploration from the outset!

Michele told us how much the Bourbons believed in this grape variety, Pallagrello, both white and black, recounting the rivalry with the Angevins and the ambitions of Ferdinando IV, known as Re Nasone, even in this domain.

He explained his territory, the soil composition, touched on the production processes, and described the evolution and adjustments he has made in his approach to interpreting and enhancing indigenous grape varieties – maximizing their strengths and working on their limitations.

He explained to everyone what "sistema Guyot" means and, not being fond of French loanwords – while acknowledging the skills of our cousins across the Alps – he welcomed the suggestion of calling this training technique "alla latina." James Guyot was, in fact, the man who formalized a vine training system that had actually already been used by the ancient Romans.

Unfortunately, nothing could be done about "batonage" – he had to give in. He found no Italian synonym to replace the French term for this technique, which Michele uses to work his wine, allowing it to enrich itself with the aromas imparted by resting on the noble lees for approximately thirty days.

The wine is then left to ferment in stainless steel before bottle ageing for approximately four months.

But now let's get to the wine itself! Pallagrello bianco is a grape variety that produces "chubby" clusters (as Alois calls them) – full, with small, round berries; compact and beautiful to look at.

Grown on pozzolanic soil and therefore quite mineral in character, Michele's Pallagrello puts down its roots at 280 metres above sea level, precisely to counteract the grape variety's naturally low base acidity – one of the winning moves by Alois and his team.

Now let's taste this Caiatì 2013!

The colour is a deep golden yellow – the kind of colour that self-appointed amateur experts might view with suspicion, but which is characteristic of Pallagrello.

On the nose it is truly complex… the mix of aromatic notes is the result of lees ageing and the nature of the soils. On the nose, iris stands out, along with wildflowers, honey, and apple.

On the palate it has a substantial structure – round yet also savoury and mineral, with very good acidity. The finish is also good. I feel compelled to compliment Alois on this wine, which can truly surprise with the potential it expresses.