Pecorino Compared

Casalfarneto e Cantina Tollo

Having returned to the spotlight only in the last decade, Pecorino is certainly a wine with great potential that is receiving wide acclaim among wine lovers and industry insiders. The grape variety originates from the gentle hills stretching between Abruzzo and Marche, although only the latter can boast the DOC certification.
And it is precisely two wineries from these regions whose products we tasted and compared to learn more about Pecorino: Casalfarneto and Cantina Tollo.

The Pecorino Offida DOC from Casalfarneto is vinified with pure pecorino grapes grown in the hilly territory of the province of Ascoli Piceno, on firm, clay soil with south-east exposure. Maturation takes place in steel tanks for 4 months, followed by at least 3 months of bottle aging. Straw yellow in color with noticeable greenish reflections, it presents as intense and persistent on the nose, with marked fruity and varietal aromas. On the palate it shows great structure, with good but not excessive acidity (a flaw of many Pecorinos), it is fresh, fairly soft, mineral and balanced. The alcohol content is 13.5% and it should be served at a temperature of 10-12°. On the market we find it at the honest price ranging from €6 to €11 per bottle.
The Pecorino IGT Terre di Chieti from Cantina Tollo is also vinified with pure pecorino grapes grown in vineyards around the municipality of Tollo, on calcareous and clay soils with south-southwest exposure. Unlike its competitor, it is left to rest for a full six months on the lees, although this process does not seem to have the desired effect in the glass. The color is the classic straw yellow, the aroma is not very intense and not at all persistent – fruity notes are perceived but they disappear in a flash without leaving a mark. On the palate we find the same problem of poor persistence, and it comes across as rather thin and poorly balanced, despite a pleasant almond note in the background. The alcohol content is 13.5% and it should be served at 12°, slightly higher than the Casalfarneto, to bring out that background note. The market price settles at the same levels (€7/€12).
In conclusion: in this case Marche beats Abruzzo by a wide margin (especially in terms of quality/price ratio), although Cantina Tollo does present many other wines of excellent quality.