Cantina Cusumano, terroir of Sicily

In just over thirteen years, the Cusumano brothers have established themselves on the national and international scene as one of the increasingly important Sicilian and Italian wineries, capable of playing a leading role. And they have achieved this with consistency, pursuing sound planning and a wise expansion strategy respectful of quality in the fruit and the expression of the Sicilian terroir. Of the Sicilian terroirs. But let us proceed in order.

We visited Cusumano at the bottling cellar located on the outskirts of Partinico, about thirty kilometers from Palermo. The winery was built around the Torre San Carlo, a nineteenth-century building that gives its name to the district.

We are welcomed and guided by Mayra Bina, who is in charge of hospitality and winery tours. The winery is, among other things, ultra-modern and energy self-sufficient, being powered by a photovoltaic solar panel system.

We visit together the state-of-the-art bottling facility, where nearly 3 million bottles are produced; the barrel cellar where many of the wines from the various Sicilian production territories mature.

Let us see which ones. The Tenuta di Ficuzza, nearly 200 hectares in the municipality of Piana degli Albanesi, at over 700 meters above sea level with striking vineyards surrounded by woodland. The area features large temperature variations between night and day and between summer and winter, which allow for the development of aromas and great finesse in the wines. The Tenuta di San Giacomo in Butera, 140 hectares characterized by white, calcareous soils rich in minerals. Endowed with great luminosity, it is the ideal terroir for producing Nero d'Avola. The Tenuta di Presti a Pegni, 70 hectares located between Alcamo and Monreale, with clay soils that lend great complexity to the wines, which are distinguished by a distinct Mediterranean character. Finally, the 15 hectares located in Castiglione di Sicilia and Verzella on the Etna, a territory now known worldwide for the ability of its vines to produce great wines; wines that the Cusumanos have yet to make.
But the common thread running through the great work done so far is the perseverance with which quality has been pursued over these 13 years, starting from a yield of only 70 quintals per hectare as the maximum production threshold in the vineyards. And as is well known, the less grapes produced per vine, the higher the quality we find in the glass of wine.

Fourteen labels are produced by Cusumano: Mayra guides us through the tasting of a selection of eight samples.

Cubìa 2011, Vino Bianco IGP, made from 100% Insolia grapes, 12.5% alcohol (Tenuta di Ficuzza). After cold maceration, the wine rests for six months in 20-hectoliter casks on the lees. A beautiful, luminous straw yellow, the wine is characterized by the cleanliness of its floral notes. With a pronounced but balanced acidity, it is a subtle and intriguing wine.

Angimbé 2012, Vino Bianco IGT, Insolia 70%, Chardonnay 30%, 13.5% alcohol (Tenuta di Ficuzza). Cold maceration at 18–20°C followed by aging on fine lees in steel for 4 months. A color between straw yellow and gold, it is a wine characterized by fruity notes on the nose, a fresh-savory sensation on the palate, warmth, and body.

Jalé 2011, Vino Bianco IGP, from 100% Chardonnay grapes, 14% alcohol (Tenuta di Ficuzza). The grapes are harvested by hand, cold maceration takes place, and the wine is then aged in oak barriques for six months. A beautiful deep straw yellow, the wine smells of banana and vanilla, Mediterranean herbs with singular notes of coconut and white cacao. Great structure.

Ramusa 2012, Vino Rosato IGT, made from 100% Pinot nero grapes, 13% alcohol (Tenuta di Ficuzza). After destemming, maceration lasts 24 hours in contact with the skins, giving the wine its beautiful coral color. On the nose it is floral, with clear hints of raspberry. On the palate it is very fresh but well-structured. It ages for six months on the lees.

Benuara 2012, Vino Rosso IGP, Nero d'Avola 70%, Syrah 30%, 14.5% alcohol (Tenuta Presti a Pegni). Hand harvesting carried out at different times depending on the grape variety (Syrah first). Fermentation takes place at controlled temperature at 26–28°C with frequent pump-overs and punch-downs, malolactic in steel and subsequent aging 80% in steel and 20% in 20-hectoliter casks. A beautiful deep ruby, the wine is characterized by fruity notes of cherry and blackberry, spicy tones, and a vibrant tannin on the palate. Good gustatory-olfactory persistence.

Pinot nero 2009, Vino Rosso IGP, 13.5% alcohol (Tenuta di Ficuzza). Ferments for 12 days, undergoes malolactic in wood, then ages in French barriques for 8 months. Ruby-colored, with floral and fruity notes on the nose with toasted and balsamic nuances. On the palate the tannin is present but silky, and the length brings back the fruity notes. Great aging potential.

Sàgana 2009, Vino Rosso IGP, made from Nero d'Avola grapes, 14% alcohol (Tenuta di San Giacomo). Maceration takes place at controlled temperature at 28–30°C for approximately two weeks, malolactic in 20-hectoliter casks where the wine rests for a further 12 months. A beautiful deep ruby, the wine surprises with its richness and concentration. It is characterized by aromas of ripe red and black fruits, spices, and Mediterranean aromatic herbs. Here too we are in the presence of a wine of great structure and elegance.

Noà 2010, Vino Rosso IGP, Nero d'Avola 40%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30%, 14.5% alcohol (Tenuta Presti a Pegni). Fermentation takes place at controlled temperature at 28–30°C for about two weeks, malolactic in oak casks where the wine subsequently ages for 12 months. Deep ruby, the wine releases fruity, spicy, and also vegetal aromas, with cacao and licorice in the very long finish. It strikes with its enormous structure, and the tannin and alcohol find the right balance despite the youth of the sample. A wine capable of standing the test of time.

We thank the gracious Mayra and leave satisfied from a winery that should be the emblem of the very best of Sicily. Excellent overall quality across wines from such diverse terroirs.
An unforgettable day.