Cavallotto, the Barolo of Bricco Boschis

Between the winery Cavallotto and Bricco Boschis there exists an extremely close bond. When one speaks of Bricco Boschis, it is clear we are referring to Cavallotto and vice versa. And not only because this historic cru of the Langhe is entirely owned by this family from Barolo. I personally had the privilege of visiting Tenuta Cavallotto in the spring of 2015.

Bricco Boschis is a magnificent fully-planted hill of 23 hectares located in the Langhe at Castiglione Falletto, in the heart of the Barolo production zone. Owned by the Cavallotto family since 1928, after nearly two decades the grapes grown there were vinified, giving rise to one of the first bottled wines with a label in the area.

The hills of the Barolo area have a geological origin dating back to the Miocene of the Tertiary Era (7–15 million years ago). The subsoil, of marine sedimentary type, is composed mainly of sandstones and compact calcareous-clayey marls. In particular, the Castiglione Falletto area is among the oldest in the zone, having emerged from the sea during the Helvetian period (between 13 and 15 million years ago). It lies on the border with the municipalities of Barolo and La Morra, which date back to the more recently formed Tortonian period. The soils are characterized by alternating layers of sands of varying compactness, grey-brown or yellowish in color, with grey sandstones (sands cemented by marine water carbonates) known as Arenarie di Diano – formations that, among other things, distinguish Tenuta Cavallotto and Bricco Boschis. On this hill, therefore, the vine's root system, as it penetrates deeper, encounters soil layers of different physical and chemical nature.

The microclimate of the area is temperate and cool. The winter is harsh, with average temperatures of around 5°C and significant snowfall that allows for the accumulation of water reserves in the soil. However, the summer is hot and dry with notably high average temperatures, around 26°C. This climate overall enhances the characteristics of Nebbiolo, from which the Barolo Cavallotto wines are made – a grape with an extremely long vegetative cycle, budding in April and reaching perfect ripeness for harvest in late October.

Grapes that the Cavallotto family cultivates following innovative agronomic protocols, as well as the principles of organic farming. The high vine density per hectare, cluster thinning, very few buds per plant, and leaf removal all allow each vine to nourish its fruit and expose it more fully to sunlight, producing grapes of superior quality. Beyond this, for over forty years a controlled total grass cover has been maintained without the use of herbicides, along with an integrated biological pest management programme, with no use of synthetic chemical substances.

After destemming the grapes, a temperature-controlled fermentation is carried out in the cellar at no more than 29°C. Maceration takes place with a semi-submerged cap with punch-downs in horizontal tanks for 20–35 days depending on the vintage.

We tasted the new vintages of the three Barolo wines produced at the estate: the Barolo Bricco Boschis 2012 and the two Riservas, the Bricco Boschis Vigna di San Giuseppe Riserva 2010 and the Vignolo Riserva 2010. In terms of climatic progression, 2010 was characterized by a harsh and prolonged winter and a start of summer marked by abundant rainfall, followed by a subsequent recovery and the achievement of full phenolic and sugar ripeness in the grapes. The 2012 vintage likewise saw a long winter followed by a summer that recorded extremely high temperatures. It was a great and on average warmer vintage, with significant autumn temperature swings.

Let's see how the tasting went.

Barolo Bricco Boschis 2012

The Barolo Bricco Boschis is produced from Nebbiolo sourced from the three vineyards that make up Bricco Boschis: vineyard Punta Marcello (the highest part of the hill), vineyard Colle SudOvest (the lowest part), and approximately 30% from the vineyard San Giuseppe (the central part of Bricco Boschis), with south-east, south, and south-west exposures. The wine ages for 3 years in Slavonian oak barrels and refines for at least 6 months in bottle.

Garnet red in color. Elegant, with evident floral, fruity, and finely spiced aromas. Opens with notes of rose and violet, then small red and black fruits, wild strawberry, sour cherry jam, pepper, tobacco, and liquorice. On the palate it is dynamic, with fresh acidity and an extremely fine tannin in evidence. Yet it already displays a remarkable glyceric softness that renders it nearly in balance. Closes long with a lingering finish of liquorice. A Barolo that already demonstrates all its class, as well as the great potential of the vintage – one that will need to be revisited over the years.

Barolo Bricco Boschis Vigna di San Giuseppe Riserva 2010

From the finest selection of the San Giuseppe vineyard comes a Barolo Riserva that has been vinified since 1970. The vines of this very old vineyard, south-west facing, replanted largely between 1932 and 1956 and divided into nine parcels, have always demonstrated excellent qualities, thanks to the particular terroir and favourable microclimate. The Barolo ages for over 4 years in Slavonian oak barrels and spends at least another 12 months in bottle.

Bright garnet in color, it immediately reveals a particularly closed nose. It needs to rest in the glass for a while before beginning to release a progression of aromas. First the fruity notes – sour cherry and cherry jam above all – then roasted coffee, leather, pepper, ferrous and graphite tones, with hints of liquorice. A commanding palate on which the harder components clearly dominate, with a monumental tannin that highlights the youth of this wine, a sharp acidity, and evident minerality. Extremely long finish with returns of sour cherry and liquorice. A wine that obviously needs to be tasted again, and that will begin to express its full potential in no less than five years.

Barolo Vignolo Riserva 2010

On the hill facing Bricco Boschis in a south-westerly direction lies the cru Vignolo, 60% owned by the Cavallotto family since 1989. Since then, vinified as a single variety, it has become one of the most acclaimed Barolo wines of Castiglione Falletto and beyond. The vineyard is particularly rich in calcareous clayey marls, where the sandy component, though present, is a minority. This Riserva also ages for over 4 years in Slavonian oak barrels and undergoes a further 12 months of refinement in bottle.

A deep garnet robe, very typical. On the nose it immediately strikes for its intoxicating floral notes of violet, then red fruit in jams and sweet spices of nutmeg, cloves, and pepper. Darker, chocolatey tones then emerge, followed by liquorice and undergrowth. A broad nose, with a long eucalyptus finish. On the palate the tannic backbone is unmistakable, highlighting how young this great wine still is – already very pleasurable and with long balsamic persistence. A very elegant Barolo that, like the other two, absolutely deserves to be tasted many more times over the course of time.

I have little left to add. I would however like to express all my gratitude, confessing that I could never tire of tasting the Barolo wines of Tenuta Cavallotto. Majestic wines that achieve stylistic perfection, while also being particularly long-lived. And that allow one to continue a story – among the most beautiful in Barolo – steeped in tradition, sobriety, and expertise.