Pino di Stio 2011: can a great Pinot Nero be made in the south?

"You're a fan of Cantina San Salvatore – haven't you tried the Pinot Nero yet?"

"Why did they start making that too?"

"Yes, I went to drink it at the winery myself!"

I couldn't resist this provocation!

Pinot Nero is certainly not a Campanian grape variety; planting it in the land of aglianico could be a simple commercial choice, as so many others have done with international varieties – but not San Salvatore. When they make a move, they do things with care, they put in the effort and are perfectionists; this won't be your typical Pinot del Sud.

The wine is called Pino di Stio. Stio is the locality where they grow the Fiano vines that give rise to the excellent fiano Pian di Stio – the highest-altitude vineyards on the estate, and that is the first smart choice. The diurnal temperature variation there is very interesting… at 550 metres above sea level with a south/south-west exposure. The soil is clay and limestone.

Pino di Stio, only 1,500 bottles – a clear positioning choice aimed at conveying a sense of exclusivity and refinement, which also justifies the price of around €40.

Pino di Stio, a play on words. Pino is the volcanic Peppino Pagano, a successful hotelier on the Paestum coast and founder of the estate; someone who likes to do things right. Now call him Pino..t.

Consulting by Riccardo Cotarella makes things even more intriguing.

Vine-level management and hand harvesting, yield per vine of five hundred grams, ageing in second- and third-passage barriques for 12 months followed by 18 further months in bottle.

Now, enough talk – let's taste. In the glass: Pino di Stio, I.G.P. Paestum Rosso 2011, pure Pinot Nero. Colour: deep ruby red with a garnet rim. On the nose there is much to distinguish: red fruits, sour cherry, chocolate, smoky notes, hints of undergrowth; there is also a touch of marsala, tobacco, and pepper. On the palate the tannin is prominent and makes itself felt, yet at the same time it is refined and elegant, with good acidity and a very well-balanced structure.

We are in the presence of a great Pino – perhaps even two!

Another winning bet from this wonderful estate.