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  • NOVEMBER 13, 2013
  • 5 min
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Principe Pallavicini and "Frascati" the Wine of Rome

"The wine with controlled designation of origin «Frascati», also in the «Spumante» style, must be obtained from grapes of vineyards having, within the company context, the following varietal composition: Malvasia bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia del Lazio (Malvasia puntinata) minimum 70%; Bellone, Bombino bianco, Greco bianco, Trebbiano toscano, Trebbiano giallo alone or jointly up to a maximum of 30%. Other white-berried grape varieties suitable for cultivation in the Lazio Region, present in the vineyards, may contribute up to a maximum of 15% of this 30%...

Eleonora Baldassini

by Eleonora Baldassini
Expert of Territories and Wines

Principe Pallavicini and "Frascati" the Wine of Rome

"The wine with controlled designation of origin «Frascati», also in the «Spumante» style, must be obtained from grapes of vineyards having, within the company context, the following varietal composition: Malvasia bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia del Lazio (Malvasia puntinata) minimum 70%; Bellone, Bombino bianco, Greco bianco, Trebbiano toscano, Trebbiano giallo alone or jointly up to a maximum of 30%. Other white-berried grape varieties suitable for cultivation in the Lazio Region, present in the vineyards, may contribute up to a maximum of 15% of this 30%..." This is what the production specifications state, which govern the production of Frascati wine, the pride of the Lazio region, for many centuries irreplaceable on the tables of the Roman nobility. The etymology of the word Frascati can probably be traced back to a tribute to the freshness of its waters, or it has its roots in the word "frasca", which centuries ago claimed for the local inhabitants the right to cut trees and shrubs. What is certain is the enthusiasm of the producers which over the years has been such as to revalue the typical almost-forgotten varieties such as Malvasia del Lazio, which was often replaced with that of Candia, resistant to diseases but of inferior quality, or the interesting Bellone, often used in the production of sparkling wine.

More than 70% of Lazio's production is predominantly white-berried and benefits from particular microclimates that form thanks to the moderating effect of the lakes present in the territory. One of the Italian wines that can boast worldwide fame is undoubtedly Frascati, which especially in the last ten years has been produced according to quality rules with lowered yields and the use of among the least productive training systems. Frascati finally acquired the DOC in 1966 and its flourishing vines rise on soils of volcanic and tuffaceous origin with medium texture, occupying the area of the municipalities of Frascati, Grottaferrata, Monte Porzio Catone, and partly those of Roma and Montecompatri. In the glass, Frascati is a wine with straw-yellow hues, with particularly floral and fruity notes that are quite intense, and an interesting structure accompanied by good persistence. Numerous wineries immersed in the green landscape of the Castelli Romani produce this type of wine so dear to this territory.
Among the many producers, "Principe Pallavicini" stands out, a name well known in the Lazio territory which has hosted this noble family since 1600. Celebrated in all its virtues, Frascati occupies 50 planted hectares at the historic Tenuta di Colonna, ranging between 100 and 300 meters in altitude! Overall, the planted surface counts 80 hectares with Guyot or Cazenave training systems. The wines are divided into two different lines: one takes its name from the estate, a symbol of quality and elegance, with blends that include international varieties, but without losing sight of tradition, because beyond Cesanese, Frascati remains the essence of their winemaking philosophy. The other line "Terre dei Pallavicini" embraces the concept of wide distribution with quality always in first place. Among the wines in the first line "Principe Pallavicini" we find a fresh and pleasant Frascati made with Malvasia del Lazio, Malvasia di Candia and Trebbiano Toscano, a balanced white "La Giara" produced with the typical Malvasia Puntinata. Celebrating the founding of the estate, the "1670" is a blend of Malvasia Puntinata (or del Lazio) and semillon. With Poggio Verde Frascati Superiore 2012, the estate wins the Regional Oscar in the "Berebene 2014" guide. This coveted guide edited by Gambero Rosso collects the best wines from every Italian region worthy of note for their organoleptic profile and their excellent quality-to-price ratio not exceeding 10 euros. Malvasia di Candia, Malvasia del Lazio, Trebbiano Toscano, Greco and Grechetto are the grapes that contribute to this wine. Located at 300 meters altitude, the vines benefit from an essentially volcanic territory. The clusters carefully selected for this prestigious product undergo a gentle pressing followed by a winemaking process called "criomacerazione". Aging takes place sur lie, on their own yeasts, for a period of approximately four or five months. With a straw-yellow color, it explodes on the nose with hints of exotic and ripe fruit. Intense in aromas as it is persistent on the palate, rich in structure, it invites drinking thanks to its enveloping softness.
Continuing with the reds, "Rubillo" cannot be missed – a fabulous and soft Cesanese, a grape variety that also undergoes approximately one month of on-vine drying to produce "Amarasco"; "Casa Romana", velvety and enveloping, based on Petit Verdot and Cabernet; Sangiovese Grosso and Merlot for a powerful "Moroello"; and a structured Cabernet Sauvignon "Soleggio".
Last but not least, "Stillato", a multi-award-winning passito based on pure Malvasia del Lazio from vines 25 years of age, trained according to the Guyot system. After fermenting in acacia wood barrique it rests for 10 months, developing its unmistakable amber color, olfactory notes of honey, candied fruit and toasted nuances. Warm and balanced on the palate, a true joy for the senses.

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