THE NEW SPARKLING WINES: DURELLO OMOMORTO
In Gambellara, among the hills straddling the Vicenza and Verona areas, lies the cantina Menti Giovanni. This unique winery follows the principles of biodynamics, whereby agricultural production operates in an ethically respectful manner towards the environment and labor, so as to produce foods that nourish the whole human being, not just the physical component.
Interventions in the vineyard are minimal and concern coverage with sulfur and copper for downy mildew and powdery mildew, while in the cellar the wine follows its natural development, without the use of additives.
Stefano Menti emphasizes the use of manual labor in managing the entire production chain, which is more advantageous both quantitatively and economically compared to organic farming, all within a vision of self-sufficiency.
Among the various wines, the winery produces Omomorto, a brut sparkling wine made from pure uva durella, sourced from approximately 30-year-old vineyards spanning a full hectare. The distinctive black label bears the phrase "intentionally declassified," indicating this winery's desire to distinguish itself from denominazioni di origine that do not guarantee quality to the consumer.
The name derives from a bloody event that occurred in the 13th century, when a farmer from Montorso killed an acquaintance from Roncà among the hills of Gambellara. Legend has it that the victim's daughter found her father's body guided by a light.
The harvest is carried out manually in early-to-mid October, working with whole and perfectly healthy grapes which, once in the cellar, are loaded into the press whole and pressed at 0.6 bar. The fermentation involves a particular metodo Charmat where the autoclave is used as a sort of vat. The process takes place with the action of natural yeasts, and when it nears completion the pressure control valves are closed so as to incorporate the carbon dioxide from the end of fermentation, thus obtaining a vino spumante without the use of secondary fermentation.
After racking, a period of 12 months in autoclave follows.
An interesting aspect of this wine from a chemical standpoint is its protein stability, achieved even in the absence of fining.
A wine with a beautiful deep straw yellow color, enriched by fine, decidedly persistent and elegant bubbles.
Dry to dosage zero, based on the amount of sugars present at the end of fermentation.
It displays good acidity, its defining characteristic, so much so that it was precisely this quality that prompted the decision to pursue sparkling wine production using the metodo Martinotti - Charmat.
On the nose it evokes hints of delicate flowers such as acacia and wisteria, slightly pungent, accompanied by the delicate aroma of fresh fruit; these are followed on the palate by an enveloping freshness and a pleasant minerality derived from the particular volcanic soils from which it originates.
A structured and organoleptically rich wine, yet extremely easy to drink due to its freshness. Best paired with flavorful foods and, if one wishes to challenge tradition, also with the typical dish of the Vicenza area: baccalà.





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