I Pastini: from the Valle d'Itria, the humble heroes of the Minutolo

We are in the wonderful Puglia, and more precisely in one of the most beautiful places in this region, the Valle d'Itria, also known as the Valle dei Trulli, where it is impossible not to leave a piece of your heart.

We are in central Puglia, where three of the region's main provinces – Bari, Brindisi, and Taranto – merge into a single valley that probably takes its name from the cult of the Madonna Odegitria, the Madonna who "shows the way."
Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Franca, Alberobello, Ostuni, Ceglie Messapica: a tour through sea, history, and… food and wine culture.

Today, however, we won't be talking about the White City (Ostuni), nor about the trulli, nor about the capocollo di Martina Franca, let alone the delicious delicacies of Ceglie… Our attention has instead been captured by a genuine local winery. The winery "I Pastini" was founded in 1996, right here in the valley, having its grapes vinified by other wineries until 2003, the year it began doing things on its own and focusing on a totally unknown product: the Fiano Minutolo.

The name derives from Pastinum, which in Latin meant the "hoe" and, by extension, the land destined for the vine.

The name reveals a deep bond with the land, and the choice to cultivate and promote native grape varieties such as Verdeca, Bianco d'Alessano, Primitivo, Sussumaniello, and Fiano Minutolo is a testament to the attachment to their terroir.
The Cupa, Rampone, and Faraone vineyards of "I Pastini" are all located between the municipalities of Locorotondo and Martina Franca, benefiting from ideal exposure and a climate well-suited to these vine varieties.

The winery is run by the Carparelli family, and in particular by Gianni, an oenologist whose passion-turned-profession was sparked by the influence of his uncle Pino, who served as his mentor.
I am welcomed by Gianni's brother, who in everyday life does something entirely different – he works in the textile sector – but all the labels on these wonderful wines were born from his imagination. Each label hides a story to tell and reflects the deep attachment these young men have toward their winery. After listening to each story with great curiosity, I already look forward to the chance to share their wines and impress the company.
Gianni's brother is quite emotional; he says he knows little about wine and doesn't think he can explain much to me – but in reality he is a wellspring of information and hospitality. He is humble, like the spirit of the whole family business, and I appreciate that.
But here he is – Gianni has freed up, and now I must tell you the story of his (Fiano) Minutolo. This grape variety is the first thing that comes to mind when I talk about this winery. Their wine is called Rampone and it is excellent – as are their other products – but that's not the only reason…

In nineteenth-century ampelographic descriptions, "Fiano" (or "Latino") is already mentioned in connection with cultivation in Campania, Basilicata, and Puglia. In the latter region it was – and still is – grown in the Gargano area and in some inland municipalities near Bari. It is worth noting that in the past, vines were often planted in mixed rows, intermingled, so that among plants of Primitivo, Verdeca, and other native varieties, a Fiano vine would appear! Ah, Fiano – what a wonderful grape! But this one seems different! In the early 2000s, it was (almost magically) realized that the Campanian biotype differs from the Fiano found around Locorotondo and Crispiano. The shoots differ, the leaves are smaller and more angular, the berries have a smaller circumference, and the aroma is clearly different. This is not an aromatic Fiano – we are talking about an entirely different grape! Floral notes, yellow fruit, a round palate, more reminiscent of a Gewurztraminer than a Fiano!

In Puglia, it is often sacrificed in favor of more productive, well-known, and profitable grape varieties. Its rediscovery – and likely its salvation – is owed to the oenologist Pasquale Carparelli, Gianni's uncle, who at the time was working for Torrevento. It was painstaking work: mapping all the vines not yet removed, collecting buds, and planting them in a new vineyard. The first row of Minutolo was being born; the first bottle of Rampone was being born.
No one before I Pastini and Gianni had taken an interest in the "Piccolo Fiano," until, faced with the evidence and the perseverance, someone had to relent and acknowledge – thanks to the tenacity of these young men and the work of experts – that this was indeed a different wine: we are looking at Fiano Minutolo. Frankly, we struggle to understand why the word "Fiano" was kept, as it can confuse the inattentive consumer; but Gianni has already taken up arms to fight this new battle and have that designation removed.
Work, experts, commitment – all to establish the obvious: this is Italy. This story contains all the flaws of our system: scant attention and interest toward lesser-known native varieties, the fragmentation of wine estates (only to later reap the fruits of others' labor), very little collaboration among "sailors on the same boat," and long, drawn-out waits.